台北侯布雄米其林法式餐廳 貴婦百貨 Bellavita L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon Taipei Review

(英文版往下看/Scroll down for English Version)
不可否認的,「世紀廚神」侯布雄廚藝名聞遐邇。已逝的侯布雄在世之年曾摘下超過三十幾顆米其林星。挑食、追星(米其林)的殘編,在還遊世界的期間曾造訪並品嚐他名下的兩間米其林餐廳:香港(米其林三星)和紐約(米其林二星)。香港和美國高水準的米其林星級餐廳太多了,當時較常吃高檔美食,混淆了我的思維,所以對侯布雄並沒有留下什麼特別的印象。2018年米其林台北殘編終於被救贖,因為跟隨其他美食指標九成九踩雷。唯獨在台北要找到志同道合的饕客真的不容易。侯布雄台北Bellavita 貴婦百貨摘星早有所聞,這週竟有友人熱情邀約一同前往品嚐,總算了了我的心願。
先看時尚高潮台北侯布雄米其林食記影片

英文版/ English Version:
Earning over 30 Michelin stars, Joël Robuchon has undeniably earned his “well-deserved title: “The Chef of the Century” for a reason. My journey of chasing Michelin stars has begun about two years ago while I toured the world. I’ve had the pleasure to try 2 of Robuchon’s Michelin-starred restaurants including the one in Hong Kong (3 Michelin stars) and New York (two Michelin stars). However, There were too many high-quality Michelin-starred restaurants in Hong Kong and the States. I was too overwhelmed to pay enough attention and make a clear judgment.
In 2018, Michelin came to Taipei and it was my savior, because any other food guide is mostly bs. The only challenge left is finding like-minded foodies in Taipei. L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon Taipei has long been on my radar since it earned its Michelin star. I finally have a chance to try it out this week.
Watch our video first:

  • 侯布雄台北餐廳環境/ Inside L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon Taipei :
    侯布雄台北的餐廳跟他其他國家一樣,主要以紅色和黑色來營造高貴華麗的視覺,完全容入「貴婦百貨」的宗旨。
侯布雄米其林法式餐廳台北貴婦百貨餐廳環境 (L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon Taipei)
侯布雄米其林法式餐廳台北貴婦百貨餐廳環境
(L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon Taipei)

英文版/ English Version:

Like his other locations, Robuchon’s restaurant in Bella Vita, Taipei, is set up with his iconic red and black décor, creating a noble and luxury style, completely in line with the Bella Vita luxury department store that houses it.

  • 侯布雄食物/The Food at L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon Taipei

介紹餐菜單之時,服務生同時拿了一盒香死人的白松露,價格是 $3580/份,可煮麵煮飯,雖然心動,但是我們今天是要來品嚐侯布雄的晚餐正餐菜單,白松露,媽媽下次會回來找你的。

台北侯布雄白松露 Robuchon Taipei white truffle
台北侯布雄白松露
(Robuchon Taipei white truffle)

英文版/ English Version:
Our server brought out a box of white truffles along with the menu. At the price of $3,580nt per box, the white truffles can be enjoyed in risotto or pasta. The aromas filled the entire booth, but we came here to taste the dinner menu, maybe next time.

  • 侯布雄菜單 / L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon Taipei Menu:

侯布雄米其林法式餐廳台北貴婦百貨菜單 L'atelier de Joël Robuchon Taipei menu
侯布雄米其林法式餐廳台北貴婦百貨菜單
( L’atelier de Joël Robuchon Taipei menu)
  • 菜單有分A,B,C三種套餐組合
    A套餐是單人的平日午餐套餐($1580),內容包括贈送的一道前菜、任選一道冷前菜或熱前菜、任選一道主菜、甜點、咖啡或茶。
    B套餐多一道前菜而C套餐則是多一道前菜並多一道主菜。
    另外還有一種更多樣化的主廚套餐是$6880。因為第一次來台北侯布雄,所以先點一般的套餐。我們是用晚餐,人數兩位,所以點有雙前菜與雙主餐的C套餐

英文版/ English Version:
The “Composez Votre Menu Selon Votre Appetit” (compose your own menu) has three combinations to choose from: Set A, B, or C.
Set A is a one-person lunch set-menu for weekdays only. The set includes a cold or warm appetizer, a main course, dessert, coffee or tea.
Set B includes one additional appetizer (2 in total) and Set C includes one additional appetizer an one additional entrees (two each in total).
There is also a more diverse chef’s tasting menu (“menu découverte”) that is priced at $6880NT. Since it’s our first time to Robuchon in Taipei, we decide to try out the standard menu. We have a group of two dining, so we choose Set C which includes two appetizers and two entrees.

  • 侯布雄米其林法式餐廳食物 / The Food at Robuchon Bella Vita Taipei:

贈送前菜(Amuse Bouche)

侯布雄贈送前菜 ( L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon Taipei amuse-bouche
侯布雄贈送前菜
( L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon Taipei amuse-bouche)

一般而言在比高級的法式餐廳吃飯,廚師一定會先上大小約一口的前菜,作為贈送禮這道菜法文叫 “Amuse Bouche文原意就是「取悅你的嘴巴」。侯布雄送給我們的Amuse Bouche 是用一個shot杯盛的湯/泥狀小菜。最底層是鴨肝慕絲,第二層是波特酒醬汁,最上層是帕馬森起司泡沫,上面再撒上法國的espelette辣椒粉。這道有濃湯的味道,喝起來非常美味。最底下的鴨肝呈濃稠的泥狀,越往上層吃起來越鬆軟,小小一杯卻很有層次感。

英文版/ English Version:
Usually, a legit French restaurant will serve you a chef’s complimentary appetizer called “amuse-bouche,” which literally translates as “mouth amuser” for guests to get a taste of the chef’s style before starting your meal. Our amuse bouche is served in a shot glass.
The bottom is a thicker layer of duck liver mousse, the middle layer is port wine sauce, and the top layer is Parmesan cheese foam, topped with French espelette pepper. This appetizer is flavourful and full of layers.

  • 餐前麵包 / bread:
侯布雄台北貴婦百貨:餐前麵包 (Joël Robuchon Taipei Michelin Restaurant bread platter)
侯布雄台北貴婦百貨:餐前麵包
(Joël Robuchon Taipei Michelin Restaurant bread platter)

麵包是整籃呈上,看起來華麗豪氣,麵包籃裡選擇多樣化,有原味的mini baguette、原味麵包捲(Petit pain)、原味的布里歐麵包brioche)、加入培根和黃芥末的麵包捲、吃起來像可頌外表貌似蝸牛/田螺的escargot麵包(“escargot法文就是「蝸牛/田螺」)、加入蕃茄和迷迭香提味的義式佛卡夏麵包Focaccia),還有加入康堤乳酪的Comté Cheese麵包

英文版/ English Version:

Bread is served in a lavish basket with multiple options: mini baguette, petit pain, brioche, bacon and mustard bread rolls, “escargot” that tastes similar to a croissant and looks like a snail, tomato and rosemary Focaccia, and Comté Cheese bread.

  • (前菜/ Starter)甜菜根鮮果沙拉搭配芥末冰沙(LA BETTERAVE):
前菜:甜菜根鮮果沙拉搭配芥末冰沙 (LA BETTERAVE)
前菜:甜菜根鮮果沙拉搭配芥末冰沙 (LA BETTERAVE)

這道前菜底層是甜菜根和蘋果,中間加一層綜合香草,包括蒔蘿、山蘿蔔葉和荷蘭芹,最上面的是芥末冰沙,口味讓人驚艷。芥末搭配冰沙雖是不太尋常的組合,但殘編覺得這一道搭起來有提味效果。

英文版/ English Version:
chopped beets and apple are topped with a scoop of wasabi sorbet with a layer of fresh herbs including dill, chervil, and parsley sandwiched in the middle. The combination is unique and its taste will surprise you just as it promises.

  • 前菜/Starter:香煎蘑菇鴨肝餃(法式煎餃)與薑味鴨肉澄清湯 (LES CHAMPIGNONS):

這道法式煎餃前菜裡面有朝鮮薊、伊比例豬跟鴨肝,搭配旁邊黃色的法國黃酒醬汁泡沫。法國黃酒口味類似台灣的紹興酒。這道菜搭配一杯用土耳其咖啡杯裝的清淡可口鴨肉澄清湯,鴨肉清湯用紅酒帶岀深紅色,對比之下讓撒上的金箔粉閃閃發光。

英文版/ English Version:

This is a French-style ravioli appetizer with artichokes, Iberian pig and foie gras in its filling, accompanied with sautéed mushrooms and served with duck consommé́. Duck consommé́ is a clear duck soup served in an espresso cup and colored with red wine. The dark burgundy brown color makes the gold leaves on top sparkle and pop in contrast.

 

  • 主餐/Main:焦化西班牙伊比襯香料茄泥 (LE PORC IBERIQUE),

這道請看影片(Please watch video for this dish)


伊比利豬煎烤至七分熟,除了煎烤過的香,並沒有什麼太重的其它味道。但搭配下面煎過的茄子和茄子泥一起吃,口味增添加不少,吃起來口感彷如在吃牛排。炸至捲曲的螺旋狀茄子脆片可以當零食啃。主餐均附馬鈴薯泥,這裡的馬鈴薯泥讓人讚嘆,口感比一般馬鈴薯泥細緻輕盈得多,容易下咽,除了些許奶油之外,似乎沒什麼調味料,原來樸素的馬鈴薯也能吃出精緻的原味。

英文版/ English Version:
Caramelized Iberian pig is cooked to medium-well. The texture is similar to steak and It tastes natural and with minimum additional flavouring. The pan-fried eggplant and eggplant puree below adds flavour, and the dish comes with a swirling deep -fried eggplant chip to snack on. Every entree is accompanied by mashed potatoes. L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon’s mashed potatoes are iconic. The taste is much lighter than the usual mashed potatos and almost airy. In addition to cream, there’s no other added flavouring. To turn such a simple ingredient into such an amazing side-dish is mind-blowing.

  • 主餐/Main:番紅花燉飯左花椰菜(Le Riz
番紅花燉飯左花椰菜(Le Riz) Joel Robuchon Taipei Bella Vita

這道番紅花燉飯外面圍一圈蔬菜高湯,用檸檬汁煮過,白花椰菜與綠花椰菜切碎薄薄的鋪在飯上面。廚師建議拌飯吃,味道清淡。同行的友人說,海鮮味比蕃紅花味道顯著,殘編認為,他應該是聞到別桌的菜香。
外面圍一圈蔬菜高湯,用檸檬汁煮過,白花椰菜與綠花椰菜切碎薄薄的鋪在飯上面。廚師建議先繳拌再吃,味道清淡。同行的友人說:「海鮮味比蕃紅花味道顯著」,殘編認為,他應該是聞到別桌的菜香。

文版/ English Version:
Risotto is flavoured with saffron and prepared with pimientos and vegetables couscous, with a thin layer of choppd cauliflouwer and broccoli on top. This is an extremely light dish, Our friend suggested that the seafood taste is more pronounced than saffron, I think he’s just confused with the aromas of the dish served next table.

  • 波士頓龍蝦義大利麵(Le Homard du Maine)
  • Joe Robuchon Taipei Bella Vita

    米其林餐廳本來就是重質勝於重量,沒在求吃飽,可能是前面的燉飯口味太清淡,我們決定點聽起來很厲害的「波士頓龍蝦義大利麵」。

這道果然加點得對極了。服務生上菜時盤蓋掀起來的那一剎那,濃郁的龍蝦香味撲鼻,與龍蝦游泳的幻想畫面隨著熱騰騰冒煙的海鮮香味一起衝天。頓時,我們鴉雀無聲,因為桌上空間已被我們正在做跟龍蝦游泳的白日夢景象給佔滿。好一會兒才回神辦正事開吃。上菜時麵條上鋪滿一層口味濃郁的龍蝦汁泡沫,服務生建議攪拌均勻後食用。麵條稍有一點粗度,攪拌後吃起來口味濃郁龍蝦分量多,口味中上,雖然沒有剛蒸出來一般的飽滿多汁,但還是吃得出Q彈嫩度。
這道一定要看影片:

文版/ English Version:
Michelin-starred restaurants are quality over quantity. Maybe it is the light risotto, we are hungry for more, so we decide to order the lobster pasta.
Maine lobster L’Atelier style spaghetti is covered in lobster coral foam and served hot. There is a moment of silence after our server opens the lid when inaudible images of daydreaming ourselves swimming with lobsters filled the air, along with the steam coming out from the plate. It takes us a while to snap back to reality and start mixing the foam into the noodles. The whole dish is incredibly flavourful and the lobster is generous in portion. The lobster is probably not the juiciest but retains its qq-ness (a real term invented by Taiwanese that’s officially added to the Michelin GUIDE!)
You must watch the video for this delectable dish:

  • 馬卡龍與泡芙 / Macarons and Puff Pastries:.
侯布雄米其林法式餐廳台北貴婦百貨L'atelier de Joël Robuchon Taipei
L’atelier de Joël Robuchon Taipei

咖啡味的泡芙搭配百香果巧克力馬卡龍
英文版/ English Version:
Coffee puff pastries are enjoyed with passionfruit chocolate macaron

  • 瑪德蓮(招待)/ Medeliene (Complimentary):

這道傳統法式的小點心是餐廳招待的,其實就是一塊樸素、口感紮實的海綿蛋糕。

英文版/ English Version: This traditional French dessert is a complimentary snack with a straight up sponge cake texture

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon Taipei

甜點(LES DESSERTS):

  • 溫熱巧克力蛋糕佐咖啡冰淇淋 / LES CHOCOLAT

 

侯布雄米其林法式餐廳台北貴婦百貨
L’atelier de Joël Robuchon Taipei

漂亮好拍的甜點底層是咖啡蛋糕,上面是咖啡香堤和咖啡冰淇淋,再用巧克力脆片點綴,口感多層次,是咖啡控的好選擇。

英文版/ English Version:
This Instagrmmable dessert is made with Caribbean chocolate cream with the base being a coffee cake topped with coffee sorbet and garnished with crispy chocolate chips. It’s a good option for coffee lovers.

  • 酸醋橘與熱焦糖 (LE VACHERIN )
酸醋橘與熱焦糖 (LE VACHERIN
L’atelier de Joël Robuchon Taipei 酸醋橘與熱焦糖 (LE VACHERIN)

這一道也非常的夢幻好打卡,白色蝸牛狀的甜點上面擺一根樹枝狀的巧克力和閃閃發光的櫻花,讓人想換上和服拍照。
焦糖口味帶一點冰醋,宛如日劇中初戀場景的酸甜好滋味。This is another dreamy Instagrammable dessert with an oriental touch.

英文版/ English Version:

This is another dreamy Instagrammable dessert with an oriental touch. Sudachi citrus and caramel vacherin style is presented with a piece of sparkling, sakura shaped chocolate and sprinkled with gold peta zeta (pop rocks), the dessert makes you want to take a selfie with it in a Kimono. The sweet and sour in combination with the peta zeta that pops in your mouth reminds you of your first love which you would typically find in a scene of a Japanese show.

 

  • 此趟台北米其林侯布雄法式餐廳之旅,好壞參半,殘編認為都是自作聰明的下場,下次我會乖乖點較多樣化的品嚐套餐(Menu Decouverte)。。。

英文版/ English Version:

Michelin-starred Joël Robuchon Taipei Bella Vita was a bit of hit and miss. Our best advice is don’t be smart alecs and just order the “Menu Decouverte” with a more variety of the chef’s choices.