約旦世界文化遺產「金三角」瓦地倫旅遊記 Travel – Jordan’s Golden Triangle Wadi Rum – UNESCO World Heritage Site

約旦世界文化遺產「金三角」瓦地倫旅遊記 Travel – Jordan’s Golden Triangle Wadi Rum – UNESCO World Heritage Site

(translation by Tanya)

(英文版向下看/ Scroll down for English version)

約旦世界文化遺產「金三角」瓦地倫旅遊記 Travel - Jordan's Golden Triangle Wadi Rum - UNESCO World Heritage Site
約旦世界文化遺產「金三角」瓦地倫旅遊記 Travel – Jordan’s Golden Triangle Wadi Rum – UNESCO World Heritage Site
  • 約旦南部有著名的「金三角」旅遊勝地,每年為約旦賺進無以計算的財富,為窮困的約旦帶來許多的生機。這三個角分別是位於北角、上次文章介紹過的「貝特拉玫瑰城」;位於南邊的是紅海邊的阿卡巴海港;東邊角便是本文將介紹的「瓦地倫」(Wadi Rum)。

English version / 英文版:

Jordan‘s famous “Golden Triangle” is a paradise where real-world travelers can admire nature’s beauty and absorb a wealth of world heritage altogether. Like its name, the “Golden Triangle attracts enough tourists each year to contribute to its economy and turn Jordan‘s low-poverty rate into a blooming world-class tourist site. The three corners of the Golden Circle spans from Petra(aka. “Rose City“) in the north, the Red Sea is in the south, and “Wadi Rum” in the east corner, which we are introducing in this article.

月亮谷瓦地倫 / Wadi Rum – Valley of the Moon

瓦地倫」因為其地勢類似月球,而又稱之為「月亮谷」(Wadi al-Qamar)。阿拉伯語Wadi的意思便是「窪地、山谷」,月亮谷除了周圍群山之外,便是平坦的砂質窪地。圍繞月亮谷的岩山群是約旦最高群山,最高約達一千八百公尺。這種地形一直向西南延伸到沙烏地阿拉伯塔布克地區。

English version / 英文版:
Wadi Rum” is as known as “Wadi al-Qamar“, which means “Valley of the Moon” in Arabic because the terrain is similar to the moon. The Arabic word “Wadi” means “valley.” Besides the surrounding mountains, Wadi Rum is a land of sand. However, the sandstone and granite rock surrounding The Moon Valley can reach up to over 1,800 m (6,040 ft), forming the highest elevation in Jordan. This terrain extends southwest to the Tabuk region of Saudi Arabia.

世界遺產文化保護區,保留原始面貌 / UNESCO World Heritage Protected Site, Retaining Its original Beauty

  • 約旦首都安曼月亮谷,約四到五小時車程。趁半夜涼爽我們就出門,晨光熹微時,我們就抵達

月亮谷」。這是一個無法一天內完成遊覽,也是聯合國科教文組織列為自然與文化保護區世界級觀光勝地。這個大地區的居民是貝都因人,區內設有軍事學校和貝都因部落安全衛隊中心。整個地區保存純樸的部落傳統習俗和貝都因傳統服飾,由於是保護區,不允許建商在此建築一般鋼筋水泥旅館,而是搭設與周遭沙丘、山岩自然景觀相互輝映的蒙古包和帳蓬供旅客入住休息。

 

English version / 英文版:
It’s about a four to five hours drive from Jordan‘s capital, Amman to Wadi Rum. We departed in the middle of the night while it was cool, and arrived at the “Moon Valley” when dawn hits. This world-class tourist attraction, which is also listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, cannot be explored in a single day. The inhabitants of this vast area are mostly Bedouins. Military schools and Bedouin tribal security guard centres in the area. The whole area preserves simple tribal traditions and traditional Bedouin costumes. Because it is a protected area, builders are not allowed to build modern hotels here. Accommodations for travelers are available in yurts and tents, proving a unique camping-under- the-stars in a wealth of heritage experience.

  • 即便如此,帳蓬裡面的設備非常現代化,帳蓬外就是迷人的大漠風光。回顧數十年前,瓦地倫並無這

些帳蓬旅社,而是天色一暗,觀光客就紛紛離去,人人懼怕這個漆黑、充滿詭異氣氛的大漠與高聳的山岩峭壁。
我們一抵達月亮谷,就被它猶如夢境中的沙漠和此起彼落奇形異狀的山岩、少數的紅色沙丘陵線震攝住,彷彿深入《一千零一夜》故事中的魔幻奇境。二十世紀六十年代的《阿拉伯勞倫斯電影或許便是被這種特殊的氣氛吸引而在此取景拍攝。這部電影紀錄第一次世界大戰期間「阿拉伯大革命」的阿拉伯半島和大敘利亞地區的歷史,革命發生地在今日的沙烏地境內,參與革命的阿拉伯人因此歷經被英法殖民的命運,包含約旦黎巴嫩敘利亞巴勒斯坦伊拉克,如今雖已建國獨立,卻留下歷史的傷痕。實際上,目前在月亮谷貝都因部落也是來自於今日沙烏地阿拉伯王室所屬的案尼撒部落阿拉伯人的國度儘管已經被西方人隨手劃分成不同的國家,但他們的傳統文化與信仰是無法分割的。

English version / 英文版:
Tents are equipped with modern facilities, separating the outside nature’s desert scenery entirely away from the comfort inside the tents. Decades ago, Wadi Rum did not have these tent hotels. High and unique shaped cliffs create a creepy atmosphere at night; hence visitors usually leave before the day gets dark.
As soon as we arrived Moon Valley, we were overwhelmed by the deserts in the dreamy desert, unique shaped mountains and rocks, and the red sandy hills. We were transported into the story of “The Thousand and One Nights” surrounded by magic. Such scenery attracts big-name movies such as the 60s Oscars-winning film “Lawrence of Arabia” to film here. This film depicts the history of the “The Arab Revolt” during the First World War, which took place in today’s Saudi Arabia. The Arabs who were involved in the revolution, including Jordan, Lebanon, Syria, Palestine, and Iraq, all experienced being colonized by Britain and France. Although they’re all independent now, the historic scars still remain. The Bedouin tribe in Moon Valley is also from the Anizah tribe, which belongs to the Saudi Arabian royals today. Although the Arabs’ kingdom has been divided into different countries by the Westerners, their traditional culture and beliefs are inseparable.

月亮谷文字雕刻隱藏多少歷史及故事 / The Wonders of the Aramaic Carvings in  The Valley of the Moon

月亮谷文字雕刻 / Aramaic Carvings in  The Valley of the Moon
月亮谷文字雕刻隱藏多少歷史及故事 / The Wonders of the Aramaic Carvings in  The Valley of the Moon
  • 月亮谷中的岩壁上有兩萬多處的古文字雕刻,有些文字歷史可以推溯到《古蘭經》所提及已經滅絕的

Thamud族,也有許多雕刻文字是那巴特王國時期使用的阿拉姆語等等。
觀光客要遍覽這片遼闊的谷地,靠雙腳幾乎不可能。許多人會騎馬、騎駱駝或開四輪傳動的車子。即便如此,一天之內也無法看遍整個谷地,所以每到周末,這裡帳蓬的入住率非常高。在這裡過夜的另一個理由當然是享受稀有的帳蓬居住經驗以及觀賞在群山間絕佳的黃昏日落景色。若具有挑戰的精神,還可以攀爬到處可見的岩山,我們仗著自己身材纖瘦,擠進狹窄的山縫裡,果然有令人驚喜的發現,看到楔形文字以及似乎是更早的象形文字和圖像,只可惜不諳古閃語,無法判斷是屬於哪一個時代的遺跡。我甚至於看到一隻手掌印在山壁上,不知古人想要表達什麼?我們也攀爬大自然遺留的岩石天橋,從上面向下看,幾乎忘記自己的存在。大自然如此碩大,人類就像眼下的一粒細砂,如此渺小。

English version / 英文版:
Over 20,000 ancient text carvings can be found on the rocky walls in the Moon Valley. Some of the text can be traced back to the extinct Thamud tribe mentioned in the Quran. Many of the carvings are the Aramaic language used by the Nabataeans.
It is almost impossible for tourists to visit this vast valley on foot. Hence, horses, camels, or four-wheel drives are ideal for transportation. It is hard to explore the entire destination in 1 day, even with these transportations. Hence, the occupancy rate of the hotel tents is high, especially on weekends. Another reason to spend the night here is to enjoy the surreal experience and watch the dreamy sunset in the mountains. If you are an adventurer, you can climb the rocky cliffs. We took advantage of our slim bodies and squeezed into the narrow mountain crevices. In return, we were rewarded with the discovery of cuneiforms and pictograms that are perhaps, even more ancient. I only wish I could understand these symbols. Another surprise I saw was a palm print on the mountain wall. I wonder if there is a story behind it. We also took on the challenge of climbing the rocky mountains, which made us feel tiny as human beings looking down from above nature.

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