食記：Trattoria di Primo 台北大直店：台北最好吃的義大利餐廳: Review – Trattoria di Primo Taipei Dazi Location

自離開義大利之後，我最想念的就是歐洲的美食。美食不一定要加油添醋，只要食材對了，什麼都對了，台灣人好像還不懂這一點。回台後，一頓簡單好吃的義大利餐是我渴望已久的。
造訪 滿足了我這兩年的渴望。
Trattoria di Primo大直店位於美麗新廣場四樓，是美麗華美麗新廣場最先入駐的餐廳之一。聽說早期他們還直送披薩到美麗華電影院，給看電影的客人吃呢！聽到咬牙切齒，後悔當初不知道。不過當初我或許就身在義大利呢！
先看試吃影片：

English Version:
“Food Art” might be the recent trend but a real food connoisseur knows that a decent meal doesn’t have to be over-embellished and can be done with minimum additives. As long as the ingredients are right, everything is right; this is something I learned in Italy but hard to find in Taiwan. I can’t tell you how much I’ve been craving for a quality Italian meal since coming to Taiwan. Trattoria di Primo Taipei Dazhi location satisfied my cravings

Watch our video first:

一進門，接待櫃上掛著各式各樣的獎狀，玻璃櫃擺著大塊大塊的輪型乳酪。原來，餐廳內的Pizza 跟麵包都是用來自義大利，受國際主廚讚賞，並得過多項獎的知名天然有機石臼Mulino Marino麵粉。這裡的比薩餅皮是用這種麵粉製作成麵團之後，在專業麵團發酵箱中長時間低溫發酵，最後送進石窯中烘烤90秒而成的拿波里式Pizza。
使用堅硬的石材，以緩慢速度磨製，讓小麥本身的獨特香氣保留下來。
把重心放在原料及食材，而不是後續天花亂墜的口水廣告，這符合傳統義大利廚藝的精神。一進門我就知道這趟「大直」真的是「大大值」得了。

我們被安排在後面的VIP包廂內，包廂採光明亮，很適合品酒、餐會。

English:

The first thing one will notice upon entering Trattoria di Primo in M. Max Square is a collection of awards and a full display of cheese trickles. Awards are from the award-winning Mulino Marino flour (aka, the “Ferrari” of flour) that they proudly use in their restaurant.
Right ingredients… check, good cheese? That’s an additional 10! I think I may have just found the place I‘ve been looking for for the past two years.

We enter a private VIP room that seats about 12 with bright lighting, perfect for a sit-down food or wine tasting.

Trattoria di Primo cheese trickles

Trattoria di Primo 的菜單：

Trattoria di Primo menu:

Trattoria di Primo 的菜單 menu

Trattoria di Primo 的菜單 menu

殘編力推的料理：

Items that we recommend:

1. 火烤西瓜煙燻乳酪沙拉: Insalata di Cocomero e Scamorza（$460）

火烤西瓜煙燻乳酪沙拉 Insalata di Cocomero e Scamorza ($460)

這道是主廚Roy所發明的超美味創意料理。因為它屬「沙拉」類所以先上。原本期待的「開胃餐點」，上的卻是塞滿填充

義大利開胃酒 Aperol Spritz

物的半顆大西瓜！我們看到雖然興奮，卻擔心接下來的餐點如何吃下去。乳酪經火烤過，不必多解釋就可想而之是多麼可口了。做成熱食的水果我吃過蘋果、香蕉，西瓜倒是沒聽過。我拿了一顆挖成球狀的火烤西瓜，放進嘴裡品嚐這道沒看過的組合。鮮甜的西瓜汁和火烤的香味在我嘴裡炸出來，在我口中直接衝到G點。火烤過後的起司香，配上西瓜變得清爽，ㄙㄨㄚˋ嘴，ㄧ點都不油膩，在往下挖就是切碎的生菜、切丁的瓜。生菜泡在西瓜汁裡，連沙拉醬都免了。

意大利菜沒有一杯Spritz，是開不了胃的。這裡的Spritz是用馬丁尼杯裝的，再用薄荷葉加以點綴，美觀極了！一口Spritz 搭配一球西瓜和起司，兩者皆清爽、微甜，絕配！不知不覺就吃完一半。

English:

You would expect an “appetizer” size for a “salad” But this dish is served with a full-on watermelon cut in half. Watermelon balls are baked and placed on a bed of lettuce along with baked cheese. Cut the dressing, because the watermelon juice does the job. We’re full just by looking at it, how are we supposed to continue?

2. 塔雷吉歐鑲蛋佐 Primo特製麵包 Uova con Taleggio ( eggs and Taleggio cheese)（$380NT)

塔雷吉歐鑲蛋佐 Primo特製麵包 Uova con Taleggio BREAD ($380)

塔雷吉歐鑲蛋佐 Primo特製麵包 Uova con Taleggio BREAD ($380)

塔雷吉歐鑲蛋佐 Primo特製麵包 Uova con Taleggio BREAD ($380)

我平常不太吃麵包，可是塔雷吉歐鑲蛋佐 Primo特製麵包，搭配的是塔雷吉歐起司跟一顆半熟蛋攪拌而成的沾醬。
塔雷吉歐起司是麼？
塔雷吉歐起司名字取自於義大利塔雷吉歐，屬於半軟的起司並有著濃郁的香味。主廚在窯烤乳酪的過程中，拉出窯燒、打一顆蛋，再利用窯燒的溫度慢慢地讓蛋呈現半熟狀。有人不吃麵包、有人不吃起司，但是起司加上半熟蛋，誰抗拒得了？能讓我不愛吃麵包的人主動伸手拿麵包並一口接一口，我終於知道這「麵粉界的法拉利」Marino如何得到美譽了。

English:

Bread is served with Uova con Taleggio ( eggs and Taleggio cheese).
Taleggio is a semi-soft cheese named after Val Taleggio, where it originated in. Chef Roy bakes the Taleggio cheese until soft and pulls it out of the oven, then adds a raw egg into the dip. The egg is then cooked to soft with the remaining heat in the oven. Our server mixes the two together into a luscious dip for our award-winning Mulino Marino bread. Normally bread doesn’t interest me because I’m stingy with my appetite and I don’t like to waste it on dough. The golden colours of orange and yellow swirling together, however, is irresistible. I even reach for a second piece.

此時我們開始品嚐Trattoria di Primo 獨家代理的義大利Otellon Ice 氣泡紅酒，此酒有別於以往的汽泡酒，不甜，是難得還能「品」的汽泡酒，飲用方試除了直接喝以外，還可以加少許冰塊、或加可樂享用，與接下來的餐單很搭：

3. Asiago（艾西亞歌）乳酪牛肝菌燉飯 Risotto Alla Asiago con Porcini（$480NT)

艾西亞歌乳酪牛肝菌燉飯 Risotto alla Asiago con Porcini ($480NT)

艾西亞歌乳酪牛肝菌燉飯 Risotto alla Asiago con Porcini ($480NT)

艾西亞歌乳酪牛肝菌燉飯 Risotto alla Asiago con Porcini ($480NT)

這道是廚師推著餐車到我們桌邊，為我們上演的晚餐秀。
艾西亞歌是高山乳酪，有著水果香跟堅果的香氣。廚師將適量的Sambuca 酒直接倒入艾西亞歌起司磚塊點火做料理。

Sambuca是義大利的八角酒，會讓這道料理有八角的香味。起司烤軟後我們原以為廚師會將起司取出家在飯上，沒想到，它竟是大氣的直接將燉飯倒入起司輪裡做拌炒（請看上面影片）！燉飯取出之後以芝麻葉點綴，再灑上新鮮的胡椒提味，主廚Roy說，這是不可或缺的一步。

English:

The chef enters our room with a trickle of Asiago cheese and put on a delightful tableside cooking show. He pours some Sambuca in it, lits it on fire, and cooks our risotto in the cheese along with porcini. Asiago cheese is produced around the alpine area of the Asiago Plateau, and carries fruity and nutty aromas when cooked. Our risotto alla Asiago con Porcini is then garnished with arugula. “Adding fresh pepper is the essential last step,” said Chef Roy.

4. 帕瑪風陳年酒醋油封鴨腿 Anatra alla Balsamico (Duck leg with balsamic in Parma Style)：

帕瑪風陳年酒醋油封鴨腿
Anatra alla Balsamico ($480 NT)

與這隻鴨初次見面可能會以為它是會致癌的壞胚子，不過就如同我常說的：“Everybody deserves a second chance.” （每個人都有得到第二次機會的權利）以貌取人是不對的。看似失心烤焦的鴨皮，其實是主廚用心用陳年酒醋醃漬過後，慢燉成陳黑色，將食物的風味鎖住後，再下鍋油炸，把味道再逼出來。紮實的鴨肉，搭配綿密口感的台灣當地食材紅心地瓜，有互補的作用。是一道非常特別的創意料理。

English:

At first sight, this duck may look like one that’ll do you no good and probably give you cancer. But as I like to say, “everybody deserves a second chance. ” judging on a first sight basis is not fair. The black duck skin that seems overcooked or burnt mistake is in fact, the result of a thoughtful3-step process. Chef Roy marinates the duck leg in aged vinegar, slow cooks it until black to lock in all the flavours, then deep fries it to force the flavours out again.

5. 八種綜合乳酪披薩 OTTO FORMAGGI PIZZA(8-Cheese pizza) ($580NT):：

八種綜合乳酪披薩
OTTO FORMAGGI PIZZA ($580NT)

殘編說過，我不愛鹹食加甜味所帶給我的困惑，殘編在此慎重道歉。原來去過四十幾個國家，我還是個井底之蛙。為了尊重主廚，我聽從他的建議，給比薩淋上了蜂蜜，沒想到它給我帶來的是舌尖上如此的快感。加上法拉利的馬力：中間皮薄濕潤、外層帶著麥香，頗有嚼勁，我一下就衝上「義」國天堂了。

English:

I’ve mentioned before that I’m not a fan of the confusion when locals add sugar or sweetness into savoury dishes. I sincerely apologize for my ignorance. It turns out; I just haven’t met the right chef. I follow Chef Roy’s instructions and drizzle honey on to our pizza. The beautiful taste plus the “Ferrari” horsepower drive me directly to heaven reaching my food climax.

Trattoria di Primo Executive Chef Roy

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