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佛跳牆自古以來都是年菜中不可或缺的一道。中國人吃佛跳牆的歷史悠久,已有百餘年歷史。據說這道菜源自於清朝光緒年間的某皇帝因吃膩了山珍海味,勒令御廚做出能讓他讚嘆的新口味菜餚,否則就砍頭嚴懲。御廚想破頭,心想既然這可能是他生命中最後一次掌勺所準備的「最後一頓晚餐」,就使出渾身解數,把各種素葷高級食材全部放進鍋裏燉煮。沒想到這鍋上桌後香味撲鼻,不僅得到皇帝的讚賞,還引發隔壁修行多年的老和尚情不自禁的爬牆張望。御廚保住小命、未被砍頭,並將這道菜取名為「佛跳牆」。殘編覺得取「狗急跳牆」比較貼切吧?
English version / 英文版:
“Buddha Jumps Over the Wall (“Fotiaoqiang,” aka. “Buddha’s Temptation“) has been one of the essential dishes for the Chinese New Years‘ feast since ancient times. Its history traces back to over a century during the Qing dynasty (1644–1912). It is said that a certain emperor of the Qing Dynasty was tired of eating his regular imperial feasts and ordered the royal chef to come up with something new to wow him; otherwise, he would behead him. With his life on the line, The royal chef thought, since this might be the “last supper” he prepared, he might as well combine all the vegetarian and meat high-quality delicacies all into one pot. Better safe than sorry, right? The result was unexpectedly successful, with aromas delightful enough to entice the vegetarian Buddhist monks next door to jump over the Wall in the hopes of partaking in the meat-based dish. The dish also won the emperor‘s heart and successfully saved the chef‘s civilian life. The royal chef witnessed the effect and named the dish “Buddha Jumps Over the Wall.” If it were to me, Instead of translating the dish’s name word for word literally, I’d name it “Even a worm will turn” instead.
殘媽今年大發慈悲竟在過年前早早就幫咱倆預購以做年菜出名、傳承四代的老字號品牌:「老協珍」的年菜。下完訂單後,殘媽便開始每天嚷嚷著:今年過年要吃老協珍,好不興奮!殘編沒吃過老協珍,剛開始還半信半疑,暗忖這品牌到底是有多麼厲害,直到過年開箱試吃後才完完全全被震嚇、佩服得五體投地。開箱時就已經被老協珍的包裝品管驚豔到,上網查看看這老協珍到底有多大來頭,結果發現堅持無添加的老字號老協珍所有年菜中的佛跳牆跟鍋物料理早在除夕以前被搶購完售。
English version / 英文版:
Maybe Buddhism hit, this year, my mom decided to be generous and pre-ordered CNY feast from “Lao Xie Zhen,” a well-established brand famous for its Chinese New Year dishes and has been passed down for four generations. She couldn’t stop raving about it after placing the order, “We’re having Lao Xie Zhen for CNY this year, so excited!” It made me wonder how good it could possibly be since I haven’t had it before. It wasn’t until I did the open box that I ultimately gave in. Laoxiezhen‘s impeccable quality control starts from its packaging. I had to do some research online even before tasting it. Lao Xie Zhen is a well-established brand that insists on no additives. Its quality earned its reputation and popularity, leading to its whole series of Buddha Jumps Over the Wall and all pot dishes sold out even before Chinese New Year’s Eve.
殘編一輩子只吃過一次佛跳牆。當時年紀輕,還沒有什麼經濟基礎,所以那一頓是我當時一生吃過最貴的一餐,雖然當時真的覺得好吃、回味無窮,想起拿起帳單的那一刻更是刻骨銘心。所以一直到今年才有幸吃到這道讓我回味無窮的經典名菜。去年過年因為防疫,曾連續十五天挑戰外送美食,今年還是逃不出防疫的詛咒,挑戰開箱各個知名品牌年菜。以下殘編將今年開箱的老協珍年菜為粉絲們一一介紹:
English version / 英文版:
I had only eaten Buddha Jumps over the Wall once in my life when I was still young and poor, so that meal was the most expensive meal I had ever eaten in my life at the time. I remember the taste was mind-blowing and unforgettable. However, the bill shock was also haunting. So, it wasn’t until this year that I finally had the chance to eat this classic and famous dish again. Last year, we did a 15-day delivery challenge while practicing #Stayhome, #Staysafe due to the pandemic. Who knew we would still be practicing social distancing this year? To change it up a bit, we’re doing a 15-day Openbox CNY feast challenge from various well-known brands. Today, I’ll be introducing the unique CNY dishes from our Lao Xie Zhen open box this year:
這道烏參牛雙寶是廣東經典名菜,老協珍使用中南美洲特選的頂級黑玉烏參加入大塊美國和澳洲的牛腩、牛筋以及類他們特調的秘製醬汁,一同紅燒煨燉至入味。老協珍的牛腩口感與咱小年夜吃的鼎泰豐年菜(下一篇食記分享)不一樣,是大塊帶嚼勁、可以大口大口放肆地吃的。肉質吸滿醬汁,口感滑嫩、味道香醇,烏參更是Q彈到會像彈簧一樣晃的。整道吃進去的不但是滿滿的膠質,也十分可口入味。
English version / 英文版:
This “Sea Cucumber and Double Beef Treasure” is a classic Cantonese dish. Top-quality sea cucumbers are specially selected from Central and South America. Large beef briskets and tendons are specially selected from the United States and Australia. Ingredients are braised with Lao Xie Zhen‘s secret recipe sauce. Lao Xie Zhen‘s beef brisket has a different texture from Din Tai Fung‘s CNY dish, which I’ll be sharing in my next food review. It is chewy in bigger chunks and can be eaten barbarically. The meat is soaked in sauce and smooth and tender in texture. The sea cucumber bounces like a spring. The whole dish is not only full of collagen but also very delicious.
老協珍將所有食材分開真空包裝,-18℃度超低溫急速冷凍,品管不禁讓人佩服。
English version / 英文版:
Lao Xie Zhen seal-packs each different ingredient from the same dish individually and freezes them at a -18°C ultra-low temperature. The quality control is superb.
這次開箱有兩種老協珍的佛跳牆:「海味街烏參佛跳牆」($1,998元)和「經典鮑魚佛跳牆」($3999元)。兩道皆有以下食材:
排骨、芋頭、海參、豬腳、雞翅、栗子、蒜頭、菱角、魚皮、紅棗、雞骨、香菇、白蘿蔔、高麗菜、雞爪、豬皮等。「經典鮑魚佛跳牆」多了珍貴的鮑魚和干貝兩樣食材。
English version / 英文版:
Our open box includes two kinds of LaoXiezhen‘s “Buddha Jumps Over the Wall“: “Haiweijie Sea Cucumber Buddha Jumps Over the Wall” ($1,998NT) and “Classic Abalone Buddha Jumps Over the Wall” ($3999). Both dishes have the following ingredients:
Ribs, taro, sea cucumber, pig’s feet, chicken wings, chestnuts, garlic, water caltrop, fish skin, jujube, chicken bones, mushrooms, white radish, cabbage, chicken feet, pork skin, and so on. The “Classic Abalone Buddha Jumps Over the Wall” contains two more precious ingredients: abalone and scallops.
老協珍的佛跳牆一樣將所有食材分開真空包裝,不但提升品管、拆箱後也好分裝進冰箱。除了食材分六袋包裝外,高湯也分四包裝。不禁讓人讚嘆。盒上將烹飪方式、食材、成分表和過敏原等都一一標示清楚外,每一袋分裝的食材也都清楚印上有效期限、食材名稱。
English version / 英文版:
As previously mentioned, all ingredients in Lao Xie Zhen‘s “Buddha Jumps Over the Wall” are seal-packed separately, improving the quality control and making it easier for consumers to store into the freezer after unpacking. In addition to the ingredients packaged in six individual bags, the broth alone is also packaged in four different bags. I’m assuming there’s a specific order to cook them to make this dish perfect. At this point, I slow clap for them for the third time. The cooking method, ingredients, nutrition facts and allergens are clearly marked on the box, and the ingredients in each sealed bag are also clearly printed with the expiration dates.
老協珍的佛跳牆還真是功夫菜,能將一甕充滿油脂的鍋物煮成清爽無負擔的口味,將一般佛跳牆的油炸芋頭改為非油炸,油炸排骨似乎也改成香煎的,口感較清香帶有嚼勁。第一鍋的芋頭被我們煮到完全融入湯底,雖然讓湯底更甜、多一味,咱還是喜歡芋頭本尊入口的綿密口感。於是第二鍋我們將芋頭煮到恰到軟度,在芋頭還呈塊狀物時起鍋,享受根莖類在口中融化時散發出的香味。這兩道給的烏參量都霸氣到讓我們懷疑老協珍有自家的海參養殖場,兩箱光是烏參就需分兩袋裝。嚴選的南非鮑魚也毫不爽快的附上8顆,每顆都很大、肉質鮮嫩Q彈,不用用勺子舀就可以看到一鍋滿滿的鮑魚。嚴選來自北海道的干貝有六顆,口味甘甜鮮美。所有食材用台式高湯耗時熬製,意外的清爽鮮甜。
English version / 英文版:
LaoXiezhen‘s “Buddha Jumps Over the Wall” is really a work of “food art.” They manage to cook a pot full of fatty ingredients and turn them into a refreshing and unburdened pot of gold. Deep-fried taro from the ordinary Buddha Jumps Over the Wall is replaced with non-fried, fresh taro, and the deep-fried pork ribs are replaced with either pan-fried or stir-fried ribs, making them more fragrant and chewy. We overcooked the taro in the first pot until it was completely melted into the soup base. Although not complaining since it adds sweetness and flavours to the soup base, we still liked the mushy texture of the taro itself. So for the second pot, we cooked the taro to the right softness and enjoyed the aromas of the rhizomes’ starchy corm as they melted in our mouths and into our palates. The number of sea cucumbers included in these two dishes is so domineering that we highly suspect that Lao Xie Zhen has its own Aquaculture of sea cucumbers. For both dishes, the sea cucumbers alone require 2 bags. The carefully selected South African abalone also comes in a generous amount of 8 significant pieces. You can see a pot full of abalone without having to scoop them out. There are six scallops carefully selected from Hokkaido, and the taste is sweet, fresh and scrumptious. All ingredients are cooked in Taiwanese broth, and the result is unexpectedly refreshing with a touch of fresh sweetness.
據殘媽說老協珍是專門做雞精、燕窩等高級營養補給品的,我想,這就是為什麼他們可以比其他廠商價格便宜且真材實料。今年真的是補補補補,希能「越補越有出息」(MC HotDog熱狗歌曲「補補補」歌詞改編)。
English version / 英文版:
According to my mom, Laoxiezhen specializes in making high-quality health and wellness supplements such as chicken essence and “bird’s nest.” I think that’s why they can provide higher value products at a lower price compared to other businesses. I hope that the nutrients I’ve consumed from Lao Xie Zhen‘s delicacies can somehow reflect my health and wellness and speed up my recovery.
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